{"id":1017,"date":"2026-06-02T08:21:02","date_gmt":"2026-06-02T08:21:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/?p=1017"},"modified":"2026-06-02T08:21:02","modified_gmt":"2026-06-02T08:21:02","slug":"round-baler-gearbox-maintenance-repair-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/round-baler-gearbox-maintenance-repair-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"\uc6d0\ud615 \ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \uae30\uc5b4\ubc15\uc2a4: \uc720\uc9c0\ubcf4\uc218, \uc11c\ube44\uc2a4 \ubc0f \uc218\ub9ac \uc548\ub0b4\uc11c"},"content":{"rendered":"
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<\/div>\n
Baler Drive System \u2014 Service and Repair<\/span><\/p>\n

\uc6d0\ud615 \ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \uae30\uc5b4\ubc15\uc2a4: \uc720\uc9c0\ubcf4\uc218, \uc11c\ube44\uc2a4 \ubc0f \uc218\ub9ac \uc548\ub0b4\uc11c<\/h1>\n

The round baler gearbox receives less maintenance attention than any other drivetrain component \u2014 yet gearbox failure costs $800\u2013$3,500 in parts plus 2\u20134 days of peak-season downtime that a $25 oil change would have prevented. This guide covers the correct oil specification, change interval, early warning signs, noise diagnosis patterns, seal replacement, and the repair-vs-replace decision that determines whether a failing gearbox is worth saving.<\/p>\n

Identify Your Gearbox Location<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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What the Baler Gearbox Does and Where the Three Locations Are<\/h2>\n

Most round balers contain not one but three distinct gearbox or speed-change units, each handling a different portion of the drive system and each having different service requirements, failure modes, and failure consequences. Treating all three as equivalent \u2014 or assuming the operator manual’s single oil change interval covers all of them \u2014 is the most common maintenance error in baler drive system service.<\/p>\n

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Main drivetrain gearbox<\/div>\n

The primary gearbox, typically mounted at the PTO input or main frame, that receives power from the tractor and distributes it to the belt drive system and pickup drive. This is the highest-load, highest-heat gearbox in the system. It operates continuously while baling and contains the most critical gearing arrangement. Oil contamination, seal failure, and gear wear at this location produce the most expensive repairs. Service interval: typically 50\u2013100 hours of baling operation or annually per manufacturer specification.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Pickup drive gearbox<\/div>\n

A smaller right-angle or offset gearbox that drives the pickup tine reel from the main drive shaft. This gearbox operates at lower torque than the main gearbox but at higher RPM relative to its size \u2014 and it experiences shock loads from pickup tine contact with rocks, soil mounds, and heavy windrow material. Seal failure at this location drops oil onto the crop flow path, contaminating hay with gear oil. Service interval: often separate from the main gearbox \u2014 check the manual for the specific interval.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Wrapping system gearbox<\/div>\n

On net wrap and film wrap balers, a small gearbox or speed-reduction unit drives the wrapping mechanism and typically the net wrap feeding system. This unit operates intermittently (only during wrapping cycles) but must engage and disengage precisely \u2014 intermittent operation at load makes it vulnerable to cold-start wear when lubricant has settled. Service is often overlooked because the unit doesn’t fail catastrophically \u2014 it fails gradually, causing inconsistent wrapping that wastes net material and produces poorly wrapped bales before the gear wear becomes apparent.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Service documentation requirement:<\/strong> Before performing any gearbox service, locate all gearbox locations on your specific baler using the operator manual’s drive system diagram. The number of gearboxes, their locations, and their individual oil specifications differ between manufacturers and models. A John Deere 459 and a Case IH RB565 may both have three gearbox locations but with different oil specifications, different drain plug locations, and different access procedures. The operator manual is not optional for gearbox service \u2014 it is the required starting point.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Gearbox Oil: Type, Interval, and How to Do the Change Correctly<\/h2>\n

\"agricultural<\/p>\n

The oil in a round baler gearbox does three things: it lubricates the gear tooth contact surfaces to prevent metal-to-metal wear, it cools the gear mesh by absorbing heat and carrying it to the gearbox housing for radiation, and it suspends and carries wear metal particles to the drain plug (or filter) where they can be removed. An oil that is not changed on schedule fails progressively at all three functions as it accumulates wear particles, oxidizes, and loses its viscosity modifying additives.<\/p>\n

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Common oil specifications<\/div>\n
EP80W-90 GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil:<\/strong> The most common specification for round baler main gearboxes. GL-5 provides higher extreme pressure additive levels than GL-4, which is beneficial for high-load applications but can corrode yellow metal (bronze, brass) components if present in the gearbox. Check whether your gearbox contains any bronze synchronizers or bushings before using GL-5 \u2014 some manufacturers specify GL-4 for this reason. SAE 90 EP gear oil:<\/strong> Equivalent to 80W-90 in most operating temperature ranges, appropriate for hot-climate operations. Synthetic 75W-140:<\/strong> Specified by some manufacturers for the main gearbox in high-output commercial operations \u2014 provides better protection under sustained heavy loads and extended temperature ranges at higher cost.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Oil change procedure<\/div>\n
1\ub2e8\uacc4:<\/strong> Run the baler at low PTO idle for 3\u20135 minutes to warm the oil to 100\u2013130\u00b0F \u2014 warm oil drains more completely and carries suspended wear particles out with it rather than leaving them settled at the drain. 2\ub2e8\uacc4:<\/strong> Disconnect PTO and shut off tractor completely. Allow gearbox to sit for 5 minutes for any hot oil to drain from upper surfaces before opening the fill plug. 3\ub2e8\uacc4:<\/strong> Remove drain plug with appropriate wrench. Magnetic drain plugs will show accumulated fine ferrous particles \u2014 this is normal. An unusually large quantity of metallic debris or any coarse chunks indicate accelerated internal wear requiring internal inspection before refilling. 4\ub2e8\uacc4:<\/strong> Allow complete drain (5\u201310 minutes), reinstall drain plug, fill to the level indicator or fill plug bottom thread with specified oil.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
What the drained oil tells you:<\/strong> Drain the old oil into a clean white container and examine it before disposing. Normal worn oil: dark brown to black, slightly opaque, no visible particles. Warning signs that indicate needed inspection: milky tan appearance (water contamination from a failed seal), silver or metallic sheen (accelerated gear tooth wear), or the presence of chunks or flakes of metal (spalling or chipping of gear teeth). These visual indicators are free diagnostic information that a straight-to-drain oil change destroys.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Visual and Operational Warning Signs: Catching Problems Before They Cascade<\/h2>\n

\"compact<\/p>\n

Gearbox failures rarely happen without warning. The warning signs are subtle in the early stages \u2014 which is why they are missed \u2014 but become progressively more obvious and more expensive to ignore. Operators who inspect their gearbox system during every pre-season service and after every 50 hours of operation identify developing problems when they are still inexpensive to address.<\/p>\n

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EARLY<\/div>\n
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Oil staining around seals without active dripping<\/strong><\/p>\n

A dry oil ring around the input or output shaft seal is the earliest sign of seal weepage \u2014 the seal lip has lost some of its sealing pressure and is allowing a small amount of oil to migrate to the outside of the housing. At this stage, the seal is still functioning but will progress to active leaking within one to three seasons. Replace the seal at the next scheduled service or pre-season maintenance window \u2014 do not wait for active leaking, which can drain enough oil to cause gear wear before the next inspection.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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MID<\/div>\n
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Gearbox housing noticeably hotter than normal<\/strong><\/p>\n

Touch the gearbox housing 5\u201310 minutes after a normal baling session. It should be warm (100\u2013140\u00b0F) but comfortably touchable for several seconds. A housing that is too hot to hold your hand against for 2 seconds (above 160\u00b0F) indicates abnormal internal friction from gear misalignment, worn bearings, insufficient oil, or contaminated oil that has lost its viscosity. Check oil level immediately \u2014 if level is correct, the cause is internal and requires further diagnosis.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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MID<\/div>\n
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Increased noise at specific operating speeds or loads<\/strong><\/p>\n

A whining tone that increases with PTO RPM indicates bearing wear or gear backlash that is outside specification. A knock or clunk that occurs at irregular intervals (not synchronized with PTO rotation speed) indicates a cracked or chipped tooth on one or more gears. A cyclic grinding sound that matches PTO shaft rotation indicates a worn or corroded bearing race. Each noise pattern points to a different component and a different urgency level.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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LATE<\/div>\n
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Active oil leaking onto the crop flow path<\/strong><\/p>\n

Gear oil contamination of hay is visible as a dark, oily appearance on the hay surface and is detectable by smell. Oil-contaminated hay must not be fed to livestock \u2014 gear oil contains metallic wear particles, sulfur-based extreme pressure additives, and oxidation products that are not safe at feeding rates that hay consumption involves. Stop baling immediately when you observe oil on the hay and do not resume until the source is identified and sealed. Active leaking also means the gearbox is operating below full oil level, which compounds internal wear.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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PTO Shaft Maintenance: The Upstream Factor That Controls Gearbox Life<\/h2>\n

More round baler gearbox failures originate from PTO shaft problems than from any other single cause. An improperly maintained PTO shaft \u2014 with worn universal joints, insufficient telescoping overlap, or inadequate angles \u2014 transmits vibration and cyclic torsional variation into the gearbox input that progressively loosens gear mesh, wears input shaft bearings, and fatigues the input seal. None of these failure modes show up on a gearbox inspection because the damage is being done by the drive shaft upstream of the gearbox.<\/p>\n

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Universal joint inspection (every season)<\/div>\n

With PTO disconnected and the tractor off, grip the shaft firmly and attempt to move it in all directions at the universal joints. Any detectable looseness (movement of more than 0.5mm in any direction) indicates worn U-joint bearing cups that need replacement. A stiff or rough feeling when rotating the joint by hand (not connected to either machine) indicates rust or worn bearing surfaces \u2014 replace before the season.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Telescoping tube overlap<\/div>\n

The PTO shaft must maintain at least 1\/3 of the telescoping tube length in overlap at both the fully compressed and fully extended positions that occur through the baler’s full operating range. Too little overlap at extension allows separation; too much compression at full articulation causes the shaft to bottom out, transmitting the full shock load into the gearbox input rather than through the telescoping tube. Mark the shaft at full extension and compression and verify adequate overlap range before the first season and after any change to tractor drawbar height.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Operating angle<\/div>\n

The PTO shaft should operate at an angle between the tractor PTO stub and the baler input gearbox shaft of no more than 15 degrees during normal operation. Angles above 15 degrees cause significant velocity variation at each revolution of the U-joint \u2014 the joint does not transmit uniform rotational speed at high angles, and the resulting cyclic speed variation manifests as torsional vibration that is directly transmitted to the gearbox input. PTO-to-baler height mismatch is the most common cause of excessive operating angle.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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PTO shaft greasing<\/div>\n

Grease the U-joint bearing cups every 8 hours of PTO operation (or daily during sustained baling) with NLGI Grade 2 lithium-complex grease rated for universal joint application. The grease zerk is located on the cross-pin body \u2014 pump grease until fresh grease appears at each bearing cup seal. Do not over-pump: excess pressure can unseat the bearing cup seals, pushing them out of the yoke. Each joint typically accepts 1\u20133 pumps from a standard grease gun. Detailed PTO shaft specifications and gearbox compatibility are in \ub18d\uc5c5\uc6a9 \ubcc0\uc18d\uae30 \ubc0f PTO \uad6c\ub3d9\uacc4 \ubd80\ud488 \uc0ac\uc591<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Diagnosing Gearbox Noise: What Each Pattern Indicates<\/h2>\n

\"round<\/p>\n

\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Noise pattern<\/th>\nWhen it occurs<\/th>\nMost likely cause<\/th>\nUrgency<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
High-pitched whine<\/td>\nIncreases with PTO RPM<\/td>\nGear backlash beyond specification, or bearing radial play<\/td>\n\uc911\uac04<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Cyclic grinding<\/td>\nOne cycle per shaft revolution<\/td>\nWorn or pitted bearing race \u2014 one high spot per revolution<\/td>\n\ub192\uc740<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Irregular knock or clunk<\/td>\nVariable frequency, not RPM-synced<\/td>\nChipped or cracked gear tooth contacting at random mesh points<\/td>\n\ub192\uc740<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Rumble that worsens under load<\/td>\nIncreases when forming bale, quieter empty<\/td>\nTapered roller bearing with reduced preload \u2014 fails under thrust load<\/td>\n\ub192\uc740<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Rattling at low idle, disappears at speed<\/td>\nBelow 400 PTO RPM only<\/td>\nExcessive gear backlash from worn gear tooth flanks<\/td>\n\uc911\uac04<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Occasional squeal at PTO engagement<\/td>\nFirst engagement only, then goes away<\/td>\nCold-start oil film on clutch or seal \u2014 typically not a gearbox problem<\/td>\n\ub0ae\uc740<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

The diagnostic steps for each noise pattern \u2014 including the procedure for isolating noise to the main gearbox vs the pickup drive vs the belt system \u2014 are covered in the \uc6d0\ud615 \ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \ubb38\uc81c \ud574\uacb0 \uac00\uc774\ub4dc<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Input and Output Seal Replacement: The Most Common Service Outside Oil Changes<\/h2>\n

Shaft seals (lip seals or radial seals) are the rubber rings that prevent gear oil from leaking out along the rotating input and output shafts. They fail from age (rubber hardens and loses sealing pressure after 5\u201310 years regardless of use), from shaft surface wear (the shaft groove worn by the seal lip allows oil past the lip), and from misalignment (shaft runout from worn bearings causes the seal to move eccentrically and fail its seating). Seal replacement is a moderate-complexity task that requires shaft removal but not gearbox disassembly in most configurations.<\/p>\n

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1<\/div>\n

Confirm seal replacement will fix the problem:<\/strong> If the shaft surface shows a visible wear groove at the seal contact point, a new seal will only delay the next leak \u2014 the seal lip will follow the groove and fail again within 1\u20132 seasons. The long-term repair in this case is a Speedi-Sleeve (a thin stainless steel repair sleeve pressed over the worn area) plus a new seal, not just the seal alone.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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2<\/div>\n

Remove shaft and old seal:<\/strong> Seal removal without damaging the housing bore requires a seal puller or a carefully angled flat-blade approach. Do not chisel or pry aggressively \u2014 a damaged housing bore will not properly seat the new seal, and the resulting misalignment will cause the new seal to fail rapidly.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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3<\/div>\n

Install new seal square to the bore:<\/strong> Apply a thin film of gear oil to the seal lip and a thin coat of sealant to the outer diameter of the seal. Press the seal into the housing bore with a seal driver (same OD as the seal, smaller OD than the housing bore) to ensure it seats flat and parallel \u2014 a cocked seal will leak at the high side regardless of how it otherwise looks.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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4<\/div>\n

Run verification:<\/strong> After reassembly, run the baler at idle PTO for 10 minutes and inspect the seal area for any seepage. New seals may show a very light surface film on the shaft during the first few hours of operation \u2014 this is normal and typically stops as the seal lip wears to its contact pattern. Active dripping from a new seal indicates incorrect installation.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Gearbox service is part of the broader seasonal maintenance schedule \u2014 including belt inspection, bearing greasing, and pre-season verification \u2014 covered in the \uc6d0\ud615 \ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \uacc4\uc808\ubcc4 \uc720\uc9c0\ubcf4\uc218 \uc810\uac80\ud45c<\/a>. Bearing condition assessment for the rollers and drive shafts downstream of the gearbox is in the round baler roller bearing maintenance guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Rebuild vs Replace: The Cost Decision Framework<\/h2>\n
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When rebuild makes economic sense<\/div>\n

The gearbox housing is intact and undamaged. The failure is isolated to bearings and seals (not gear tooth damage). OEM or quality aftermarket rebuild kits are available for the specific model. Total rebuild cost (kit + labor or your time) is below 50% of replacement gearbox cost. The baler itself has remaining productive life that justifies the investment \u2014 a complete rebuild on a gearbox that will go on a 25-year-old baler with 30,000+ bales and multiple other worn systems may not be the most rational expenditure.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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When replacement is the right decision<\/div>\n

Gear teeth are broken, spalled, or significantly worn on multiple gear pairs \u2014 the gearbox internals need complete replacement regardless of bearing condition. The housing is cracked, warped, or has damaged bearing bores. The gearbox model is discontinued and rebuild kits are unavailable. The failure was catastrophic from oil starvation and internal scoring is present on all contact surfaces. In these cases, a new or quality remanufactured gearbox provides known-good performance, a warranty, and predictable life expectancy that a rebuilt severely-damaged gearbox cannot provide.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Cost reference:<\/strong> A rebuild kit for a typical mid-size baler main gearbox (bearings, seals, gasket set) typically costs $120\u2013$280. A replacement remanufactured gearbox for common baler models costs $400\u2013$900. A new OEM gearbox costs $700\u2013$2,200 depending on baler brand and model. Labor time for a full gearbox removal and reinstall is typically 4\u20138 hours. Evaluate total rebuild cost (kit + labor value + downtime risk) against replacement cost and the time-to-safe-operation of each option. If the gearbox failure indicates the baler is approaching end-of-life, view our \uc6d0\ud615 \ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \ubaa8\ub378<\/a> for replacement options matched to your production scale.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Round Baler Gearbox FAQs<\/h2>\n
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\nHow often should I change the oil in my round baler gearbox?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
The manufacturer’s specified interval is the minimum standard \u2014 most manufacturers specify the first oil change at 50 hours of baling operation, then annually or at 100 hours of baling operation thereafter. The 50-hour first-change interval is critical for new gearboxes and newly rebuilt gearboxes because the initial run-in period generates elevated fine metal particles as gear teeth and bearing surfaces wear to their contact pattern. Removing this break-in metal immediately prevents it from abrading surfaces through the full operating life of the unit. For operators who bale fewer than 500 bales per season, the annual change interval protects against oil oxidation degradation even when hours are low.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nCan I use tractor hydraulic fluid or transmission oil instead of gear oil in the baler gearbox?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
No \u2014 hydraulic fluid and tractor transmission oil are formulated for wet-clutch and hydraulic system application, not for the high-pressure, high-sliding contact of spur and bevel gears in a baler gearbox. They lack the extreme pressure (EP) additives that prevent metal-to-metal contact at the gear tooth mesh point under load. Using hydraulic fluid in a gear application that specifies EP gear oil produces accelerated gear tooth wear because the oil film shears out of the contact zone under baling loads. This can cause irreversible gear tooth damage within one season of operation. If the specified oil is unavailable, contact the manufacturer for approved alternatives \u2014 do not substitute non-EP oils in EP-specified gearboxes.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nMy gearbox oil came out milky white \u2014 what does that mean?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Milky, tan, or gray oil that resembles coffee with cream indicates water has entered the gearbox and emulsified with the gear oil \u2014 a condition called oil emulsification or water contamination. The primary entry path is through a failed seal: a shaft seal that is allowing oil to weep out is also allowing pressure changes to draw moisture in, particularly during cooldown after operation (the gearbox contracts slightly as it cools, creating a brief low-pressure condition that can pull moisture past a marginal seal). Secondary path: pressure washing that forces water past the fill or drain plug threads. Emulsified oil provides almost no gear protection \u2014 water does not have film strength to maintain the oil film at gear contact zones. Drain immediately, identify the water entry point, repair the seal, and refill with fresh specified oil. If the gearbox ran extensively on emulsified oil, internal inspection for corrosion on bearing surfaces is warranted.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nThe gearbox is fine mechanically but is leaking oil onto the hay. Can I seal it without a full rebuild?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
If the leak source is a shaft seal (which it is in the majority of cases), shaft seal replacement \u2014 described in the service section above \u2014 can be performed without a full gearbox rebuild in most configurations. Remove the shaft, replace the seal with the correct OEM or equivalent seal, reinstall. Total time: 1\u20133 hours depending on shaft access. If the leak is from a gasket joint (the split line between gearbox housing halves), application of an appropriate RTV silicone sealant to the exterior of the joint after cleaning and degreasing may temporarily reduce seepage, but the permanent fix is disassembly and gasket replacement. Never use generic automotive RTV inside a gear oil bath \u2014 it breaks down in EP gear oil and can contaminate the lubrication system with silicone fragments that damage bearing surfaces.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nHow do I know when I need a new gearbox vs just service?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
The decision threshold is gear tooth integrity. If the gearbox is noisy but the oil is clean, the temperature is normal, and no chunky debris came out with the oil change \u2014 service (bearings, seals, fresh oil) is likely the appropriate response. If the drained oil contains metal flakes or chunks, the gearbox is noisy in a pattern consistent with gear damage, or there is irregular clunking at variable frequencies (indicating a chipped or cracked tooth), open the gearbox and inspect the gear teeth directly. Finding a chipped tooth on one gear means you will need to replace at minimum that gear and its mesh partner, and often the full gear set since all gears have been running with metal contamination in the oil. At that repair cost level, a replacement gearbox \u2014 with known-good internal condition \u2014 often provides better economics and certainty than a partial internal repair.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nShould I replace the gearbox or the whole baler when the gearbox fails on an older machine?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
This is fundamentally an investment analysis question, not a parts question. The key inputs: what is the remaining productive value of the baler beyond the gearbox? If the belts are at 85% of their replacement interval, the pickup tines are worn, and the tailgate cylinders are seeping \u2014 the gearbox is just the first of several near-term failures that will each stop production and require capital. In this scenario, investing $800\u2013$1,500 in a replacement gearbox extends the baler’s life but does not eliminate the near-term maintenance burden. If the baler is otherwise sound \u2014 recent belts, good bearing condition, solid hydraulics \u2014 the gearbox replacement is a targeted repair that restores a mechanically solid machine and represents good value. The ROI framework for this analysis is in the round baler ROI and investment analysis guide, which covers the repair-vs-replace decision with specific cost and bale-count inputs.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\"foragebaler.com<\/p>\n

Get Gearbox Specifications and Service Intervals for Your Baler Model<\/h3>\n

Tell us your baler model and the gearbox problem you are diagnosing or the service you need to perform. We provide the correct oil specification, gearbox location, drain and fill procedure, and service interval for your configuration.<\/p>\n

Get Gearbox Service Specs<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\ud3b8\uc9d1\uc790: Cxm<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Baler Drive System \u2014 Service and Repair Round Baler Gearbox: Maintenance, Service, and Repair Guide The round baler gearbox receives less maintenance attention than any other drivetrain component \u2014 yet gearbox failure costs $800\u2013$3,500 in parts plus 2\u20134 days of peak-season downtime that a $25 oil change would have prevented. This guide covers the correct […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[28],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1017","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-forage-baler"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1017","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1017"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1017\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1018,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1017\/revisions\/1018"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1017"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1017"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1017"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}