{"id":1260,"date":"2026-07-30T03:16:04","date_gmt":"2026-07-30T03:16:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/?p=1260"},"modified":"2026-07-30T03:16:04","modified_gmt":"2026-07-30T03:16:04","slug":"square-baler-knotter-adjustment-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/square-baler-knotter-adjustment-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"\uc0ac\uac01\ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \ub9e4\ub4ed \uc870\uc815 \uac00\uc774\ub4dc"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Technical Guide \u00b7 All 9YF Models \u00b7 D-Type Knotter Adjustment<\/p>\n

\uc0ac\uac01\ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \ub9e4\ub4ed \uc870\uc815 \uac00\uc774\ub4dc<\/h1>\n

The knotter is the most mechanically precise component on a square baler \u2014 and the only one that cannot be approximately right. A bill hook one millimetre out of position, a needle arriving at the wrong phase, or a tension disc set incorrectly produces consistent miss-ties regardless of how new or well-maintained the other components are. This guide walks through every knotter adjustment in the correct sequence, explaining what each component does and how to verify it is set correctly before the 20-bale test confirms the adjustment.<\/p>\n

Covers: how the D-type knotter works \u00b7 tools needed \u00b7 adjustment sequence \u00b7 bill hook timing \u00b7 needle alignment \u00b7 tension discs \u00b7 cam follower \u00b7 knife timing \u00b7 verification test<\/p>\n

\uc0ac\uac01 \ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \uc81c\ud488\uad70 \ubcf4\uae30<\/a>
\n\uae30\uc220 \uc9c0\uc6d0\uc744 \ubc1b\uc73c\uc138\uc694<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Safety Before Any Knotter Work<\/div>\n

All knotter adjustment must be done with the tractor PTO fully disengaged and the tractor engine stopped. The knotter mechanism under spring tension can snap closed with significant force if a component is manually rotated. Keep fingers away from the bill hook face and needle tip at all times during adjustment. Only after all adjustment and guards are refitted should the PTO be re-engaged for test baling.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

How the D-Type Knotter Works: The Six Components<\/h2>\n

Every miss-tie diagnosis starts with knowing which component is responsible. The D-type double knotter on all 9YF series models uses six interacting components \u2014 each has a specific role and a specific failure mode when out of adjustment.<\/p>\n

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\n
Bill Hook (Bill)<\/div>\n

Rotating hook that forms the knot loop. Its jaw opens to capture the twine delivered by the needle, closes to form the loop, and then the loop is stripped off over the bale rope to form the finished knot. Timing and tip profile are critical.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Cam Follower<\/div>\n

Rides on the drive cam lobe that controls the bill hook rotation timing. The clearance between the follower and cam determines the precision of the bill hook timing relative to the main drive cycle.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Needle<\/div>\n

Arm that delivers a bight of twine from the spool to the bill hook at the correct phase of the main drive cycle. The needle tip position at maximum travel must align precisely with the bill hook jaw opening.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Tension Disc<\/div>\n

Maintains constant back-pressure on the twine between spool and knotter. Controls the loop geometry as it forms around the bill hook \u2014 too tight produces a breaking loop; too loose produces a sloppy loop the bill hook cannot form correctly.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Twine Disc (Cord Holder)<\/div>\n

Holds the standing length of bale rope in position during the knot formation cycle so the bill hook can form the loop around a stable rope section rather than a moving one.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Knife Blade<\/div>\n

Cuts the twine after the knot is fully formed. Timing is critical \u2014 cut before the knot forms produces a loose unknotted rope end; cut too late produces a tension spike that can break the twine at the knot point.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Tools Required for Knotter Adjustment<\/h2>\n
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Operator manual<\/strong> with timing specifications for your specific 9YF model. Every adjustment in this guide must be referenced against the specification values in your manual \u2014 tolerances vary by model.<\/div>\n
Open-end spanners and socket set<\/strong> in the sizes used by the adjustment locknuts on your model (typically 10mm, 13mm, 17mm and 19mm).<\/div>\n
Feeler gauge set<\/strong> for cam follower clearance measurement (0.1\u20131.0mm range required).<\/div>\n
Straight rule or knotter timing rod<\/strong> \u2014 some adjustments require a straight reference to verify needle tip alignment at maximum travel.<\/div>\n
Chalk or paint pen<\/strong> for marking the timing position on the drive shaft before loosening adjustment clamps.<\/div>\n
Test baling material<\/strong> \u2014 at minimum 20 bales of crop at operating density. Adjustment verified on test bales only; bench testing is insufficient.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The Adjustment Sequence \u2014 Order Is Not Interchangeable<\/h2>\n

The six knotter adjustments interact. Adjusting the needle before the tension discs are correctly set means the needle alignment is established relative to a non-representative twine tension \u2014 requiring re-alignment after disc adjustment. Follow this sequence exactly:<\/p>\n

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1<\/span><\/p>\n

Tension discs<\/strong> \u2014 set these first. All downstream loop geometry depends on the tension the discs apply to the running twine.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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2<\/span><\/p>\n

Bill hook timing<\/strong> \u2014 set the angular position of the bill hook relative to the main drive cycle. All other timing is referenced to the bill hook position.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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3<\/span><\/p>\n

Needle timing and alignment<\/strong> \u2014 set after bill hook timing is established, so the needle arrives at the correct bill hook phase.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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4<\/span><\/p>\n

Cam follower clearance<\/strong> \u2014 set after bill hook timing, as the follower clearance fine-tunes the opening\/closing timing of the bill hook jaw.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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5<\/span><\/p>\n

Knife timing<\/strong> \u2014 set after needle and bill hook timing are established. The knife must cut after the knot is complete \u2014 which depends on the complete knotter cycle timing.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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6<\/span><\/p>\n

20-bale test verification<\/strong> \u2014 the only valid confirmation that the complete adjustment sequence has produced a correctly functioning knotter.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Step 1: Tension Disc Adjustment<\/h2>\n

\"9YF-2200<\/p>\n

What Correct Tension Feels Like<\/h3>\n

With the discs engaged, pull the free twine from the needle eye back toward the spool by hand. The correct resistance is firm but not immovable \u2014 the twine should move with continuous hand pressure of approximately 2\u20133kg force without jerking or binding. Both sides should feel identical. If one side is noticeably tighter or looser than the other, the uneven tension will produce two different knot geometries \u2014 one reliable and one consistently weaker.<\/p>\n

Adjustment Procedure<\/h3>\n

Locate the tension disc spring adjustment nut on each knotter side. Turn clockwise to increase tension, counter-clockwise to decrease. Adjust in quarter-turn increments and re-test the hand pull after each adjustment. Tighten the locknut against the adjustment nut after reaching the correct tension. If the disc faces are grooved, no tension setting will produce correct results \u2014 replace the discs before adjusting. Common error: operators over-tighten discs to try to improve knot quality when the real problem is a worn bill hook or cam follower. Over-tight discs mask these problems temporarily but cause twine breakage at higher bale densities.<\/p>\n

Step 2: Bill Hook Timing Adjustment<\/h2>\n

What You Are Setting<\/h3>\n

The bill hook rotates on its shaft in synchronisation with the main knotter drive. The timing sets at which angular position of the main drive cycle the bill hook jaw is fully open (to receive twine from the needle), and at which position it begins to close. If the jaw is not fully open when the needle arrives, the twine is not captured \u2014 producing a miss-tie. If the jaw closes before the needle withdraws, the needle damages the just-formed loop.<\/p>\n

Adjustment Procedure<\/h3>\n

Find the timing marks on the bill hook drive gear or shaft \u2014 these are either stamped marks, drilled dots, or paint marks that align to show the correct position. Rotate the main knotter drive (by hand with PTO disengaged) until the bill hook is at the maximum travel position of the needle. In this position, the bill hook jaw should be fully open and the jaw face should align with the needle tip position as shown in the operator manual timing diagram.<\/p>\n

To adjust: loosen the bill hook shaft clamping bolts, rotate the bill hook on its shaft to the correct position as shown by timing marks, retighten the clamping bolts to specified torque. After adjustment, rotate the mechanism slowly by hand through one complete cycle and verify that the bill hook opens smoothly at the correct point, captures the imagined twine loop position, and closes without interference with the needle arm on its return stroke.<\/p>\n

Step 3: Needle Timing and Alignment<\/h2>\n

The Two Needle Requirements<\/h3>\n

The needle adjustment has two independent requirements that must both be met simultaneously: (1) the needle must arrive at maximum travel at the correct angular position of the main drive cycle \u2014 this is needle timing; (2) the needle tip at maximum travel must be in the correct spatial position relative to the bill hook jaw \u2014 this is needle alignment. Timing error produces a needle that arrives at the right place but at the wrong moment. Alignment error produces a needle that arrives at the right moment but misses the bill hook jaw.<\/p>\n

Timing Adjustment<\/h3>\n

The needle arm is driven by an eccentric or a chain\/gear connection from the main knotter drive. Timing is adjusted by changing the phase relationship of this drive. On chain-driven needles: move the chain one link to advance or retard the needle arrival. On eccentric-driven needles: rotate the eccentric boss to the specified timing position shown in the operator manual. The correct timing brings the needle to maximum travel when the bill hook jaw is fully open and the twine disc is in the holding position.<\/p>\n

Alignment Adjustment<\/h3>\n

At maximum needle travel (mechanism stationary at this point, PTO disconnected), the needle tip should be positioned at the specified location relative to the bill hook jaw \u2014 typically centred on the jaw face and within 2\u20133mm of the specified offset dimension in the operator manual. Adjustment is made by repositioning the needle arm on its drive shaft. A straight rule or the dedicated alignment rod specified in some operator manuals provides the reference for this measurement. An alignment that passes the visual test but fails in actual baling almost always means the timing is slightly off \u2014 the needle is in the right position at rest but arrives too early or too late in the dynamic cycle.<\/p>\n

Step 4: Cam Follower Clearance<\/h2>\n

\"9YF-2200S<\/p>\n

The cam follower rides against the cam lobe surface. The specified clearance between the follower tip and the cam lobe \u2014 when the lobe is at the base circle position \u2014 determines how crisply the bill hook opens and closes at the transition points. Insufficient clearance (too tight): the follower begins riding up the cam early, starting the bill hook opening action before the specified timing point. Excessive clearance: the follower contacts the cam lobe late, delaying the opening action past the capture window.<\/p>\n

Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap at the base circle position of the cam. Compare to the specification in the operator manual. Adjustment is made by the follower arm stop bolt \u2014 turning the stop bolt in decreases the clearance; turning out increases it. Lock the adjustment with the jam nut after setting. Set both sides independently \u2014 they may not be identical even on a new machine, as the cam profiles can have minor manufacturing variation.<\/p>\n

Common mistake: assuming that both sides need identical cam follower adjustment. Adjust each side to its own specification-measured clearance rather than making them match each other \u2014 it is the specification that matters, not side-to-side symmetry.<\/p>\n

Step 5: Knife Timing and Clearance<\/h2>\n

The Knife Timing Requirement<\/h3>\n

The knife must cut the twine at a specific point in the cycle: after the knot loop has been fully formed and stripped off the bill hook, but before the bill hook begins its next capture cycle. A knife that cuts too early severs the twine before the knot is complete \u2014 the bale exits with one rope end free. A knife that cuts too late allows the new loop to form around the not-yet-severed rope end, producing a double-loop tangle rather than a clean knot.<\/p>\n

Clearance Adjustment<\/h3>\n

With the mechanism at the knife-cutting position (refer to the operator manual diagram), the knife edge should contact the twine at the specified angle and clearance from the twine disc. Knife clearance is adjusted by the knife arm stop position or by shims behind the knife mount depending on the model. The knife edge must be sharp \u2014 a dull knife does not cut cleanly at the specified contact angle and may pull the knot instead of severing the twine. If the knife timing is correct and clear cuts still do not occur, replace the blade before making further timing adjustments.<\/p>\n

Diagnosing Miss-Tie Patterns: What the Bale Tells You<\/h2>\n

\"9YF<\/p>\n

\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Miss-Tie Appearance<\/th>\nLikely Cause<\/th>\nFirst Check<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
Rope loose, hanging free, no knot formed at all<\/td>\nNeedle not delivering twine to bill hook (needle timing or alignment)<\/td>\nStep 3 \u2014 needle timing and alignment<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Knot formed but slides off under tension (slipping knot)<\/td>\nBill hook not completing the loop correctly (tip wear or timing)<\/td>\nBill hook tip inspection, then Step 2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Double rope end \u2014 two lengths, no knot<\/td>\nKnife cutting before knot is formed (knife timing too early)<\/td>\nStep 5 \u2014 knife timing<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Tangled loop, twine wrapped around rope without knot<\/td>\nKnife cutting too late, or twine disc not holding rope<\/td>\nKnife timing and twine disc inspection<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Knot formed on one side only, other side free<\/td>\nOne knotter side has different adjustment from the other<\/td>\nCompare both sides \u2014 adjust the failing side independently<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Consistent miss every N-th bale regardless of settings<\/td>\nStar wheel or trip mechanism \u2014 bale length measurement is triggering at wrong point<\/td>\nStar wheel tine condition and trip mechanism spring<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n

Step 6: The 20-Bale Verification Test<\/h2>\n

\"small<\/p>\n

The 20-bale test is not optional after any knotter adjustment. Static inspection of the mechanism can confirm that components are in the correct positions \u2014 but only actual baling under compression load and at operating speed reveals whether the timing interactions produce correct knot formation in the dynamic cycle. Run the test at the forward speed and density setting you will use in production \u2014 not at reduced speed or minimum density.<\/p>\n

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CHECK 1<\/span><\/p>\n

Count knots on every bale.<\/strong> 2 ropes per bale, 2 knots per rope. 20 bales = 80 knots. Zero misses is the passing standard. Any miss requires returning to the failed component and re-adjusting before proceeding.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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CHECK 2<\/span><\/p>\n

Inspect the rope cut face on each bale.<\/strong> A correctly timed and sharp knife produces a clean, square-cut rope end. A ragged or fibrous end indicates a dull blade. A rope that appears pulled rather than cut indicates knife clearance too loose.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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CHECK 3<\/span><\/p>\n

Pull on each knot firmly.<\/strong> The correct D-type knot tightens under tension rather than slipping. Any knot that slides under firm hand tension has incorrect bill hook timing or a worn bill hook tip that is not completing the loop correctly.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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CHECK 4<\/span><\/p>\n

Run 3 additional bales at maximum density.<\/strong> Knotter problems that are marginal at moderate density often appear only at maximum compression load. If the 20-bale test passes at standard density, run 3 bales at maximum density before certifying the adjustment complete.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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When Adjustment Cannot Fix the Problem<\/h3>\n

If the 20-bale test continues to fail after correctly completing all five adjustment steps, the problem is worn components rather than incorrect adjustment. Correct adjustment cannot compensate for a bill hook with a flat spot on the tip face, a cam follower worn beyond the measurement threshold, or a needle arm that is bent and therefore cannot reach the specified alignment position regardless of adjustment position. At this point, the failing component must be identified by measurement against specification and replaced. A correctly adjusted mechanism with worn components will produce marginally better results than before adjustment but will not reach the zero-miss-tie standard that correct components and correct adjustment together achieve.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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PTO Drive and Knotter Timing<\/h3>\n
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\n\"agricultural
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

PTO shaft and gearbox specifications for 9YF series: \ub18d\uc5c5\uc6a9 \uae30\uc5b4\ubc15\uc2a4 \ubc0f PTO \uc0e4\ud504\ud2b8 \uc0ac\uc591<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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All knotter timing specifications are calibrated for 540rpm PTO. At significantly below-rated PTO speed, the dynamic cycle timing shifts \u2014 a knotter adjusted correctly at 540rpm may produce miss-ties at 480rpm. Maintain rated PTO speed as a prerequisite for knotter reliability. Driveshaft specifications: PTO \uad6c\ub3d9\ucd95 \ubc0f CV \uc870\uc778\ud2b8 \ud06c\uae30 \uac00\uc774\ub4dc<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Frequently Asked Questions \u2014 Square Baler Knotter Adjustment<\/h2>\n
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\nMy baler misses ties only on the right side. Is the adjustment different for each side?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Yes \u2014 the two knotter sides on a double-knotter baler are mechanically independent and must be adjusted independently. A miss-tie on one side only means the problem is specific to that side. Work through the adjustment sequence for the failing side only, using the correctly functioning side as a reference comparison. If the right side is missing and the left is working correctly, check the right side bill hook tip first (most common cause of single-side miss-ties), then the right side cam follower clearance, then the right side needle alignment. Do not adjust the working left side \u2014 any change there risks introducing a problem where none currently exists.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nAfter adjusting the knotter, it tied perfectly for 50 bales and then started missing again. What happened?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
A knotter that performs correctly for a short period after adjustment and then begins missing again typically indicates: (1) an adjustment that was at the edge of the acceptable range and shifted during initial baling from component settling; (2) a borderline worn component (bill hook tip, cam follower) that is still within specification but at the limit \u2014 the 50 bales of correct operation represents the last of its functional life before the wear exceeded the specification threshold; or (3) a locknut that was not fully tightened, allowing the adjustment to shift under vibration. Check the locknut tightness on all recently adjusted components first. If all locknuts are tight and the knotter was previously operating correctly, the most likely explanation is that a borderline component crossed the replacement threshold during those 50 bales. Measure the bill hook tip and cam follower again against specification \u2014 they may now be beyond the replacement threshold even if they were within specification at the pre-session inspection.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nHow do I know which component to adjust first if I do not know which one is causing the miss?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Use the miss-tie pattern diagnostic table above \u2014 the appearance of the failed rope end and the bale condition after a miss-tie identifies the responsible component in most cases. If you cannot determine the cause from visual inspection of the missed bales, follow the adjustment sequence in order: begin with tension discs (most commonly incorrect after a long session or a twine grade change), then bill hooks (most common component to develop progressive wear that eventually causes miss-ties), then needle timing. In practice, the majority of field-developed miss-ties that were not present at the start of the season are caused by one of three things: tension disc setting that has drifted, bill hook tip that has worn past the functional threshold, or a twine grade change that requires a different tension setting. Check these three in order before working through the full adjustment sequence.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nIs it possible to adjust a square baler knotter without the operator manual?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Knotter adjustment without the operator manual is difficult and risky. The specific tolerance values \u2014 cam follower clearance in tenths of a millimetre, needle tip alignment offset in millimetres, bill hook timing position in degrees \u2014 are different for each 9YF model and even for different production years of the same model. Attempting to set these values by eye or by comparison with a reference machine of unknown specification introduces adjustment errors that can produce consistent miss-ties from an apparently correct adjustment. Contact us with your model number and serial number and we will provide the specification values for your specific machine before attempting adjustment. Alternatively, request a replacement operator manual page for the knotter timing section \u2014 this is the minimum reference required for reliable adjustment.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nHow often does a correctly maintained 9YF knotter need full adjustment?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
A correctly maintained knotter \u2014 annual blade replacement, annual bill hook inspection, daily cam follower greasing \u2014 rarely needs full timing adjustment in service. The annual pre-season service should include verification of the timing settings against specification (not a full readjustment) and replacement of any component found to be at or beyond its wear limit. The full adjustment sequence described in this guide is typically needed: (1) when installing new bill hooks or cam followers that may have slightly different geometry from the outgoing parts; (2) when a new machine is commissioned for the first season; (3) when a miss-tie pattern appears that has not responded to tension disc adjustment and is confirmed not to be a worn component issue. Under correct maintenance, a full knotter adjustment on a 9YF series baler is a once-in-several-seasons event rather than a regular annual procedure.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nShould both knotter sides be adjusted to exactly the same settings?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Both sides should be adjusted to the specification values in the operator manual \u2014 which are the same for both sides. However, the physical adjustment position (how many turns of the adjustment bolt, how far the eccentric is moved) to reach that specification value may differ slightly between sides due to minor manufacturing variation in cam profiles, cam follower dimensions and needle arm geometry. This means you measure both sides against the specification rather than copying one side to the other. If both sides independently meet the specification, they are correctly adjusted regardless of whether the physical adjustment positions are identical or slightly different.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nWhat does it mean when the knot forms but the rope end shows a long frayed tail?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
A knot that forms correctly with a clean loop but the rope end shows a long frayed tail \u2014 rather than a clean square cut \u2014 indicates a dull knife blade rather than a timing problem. The knife is contacting the twine but abrading it rather than cutting it cleanly; the twine eventually separates but leaves fibre strands hanging. Replace the knife blade. If a new blade also produces ragged cut faces, check the knife arm clearance \u2014 the blade may not be contacting the twine squarely at the specified angle, causing a pull-and-abrade action rather than a clean shear cut. This is a knife timing or clearance issue (Step 5) rather than a blade sharpness issue. Run the Step 5 adjustment procedure if a fresh blade continues to produce ragged cuts.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n
\nCan I damage the knotter by over-adjusting any component?+<\/span><\/summary>\n
Yes \u2014 over-adjustment of specific components can cause damage. The most common over-adjustment damage: (1) Tension disc over-tightened beyond the range of the adjustment bolt \u2014 the disc clamping force can deform the twine guide groove or crack the disc housing in extreme cases, though the more typical result is just twine breakage at high density. (2) Cam follower clearance set too tight \u2014 the follower rides the cam constantly rather than at the designed contact points, causing accelerated cam lobe and follower tip wear. (3) Bill hook shaft clamps over-torqued \u2014 the clamping force can distort the shaft bore, making future adjustment or bill hook replacement difficult. Always use the torque value from the operator manual when retightening clamping bolts rather than tightening by feel.<\/div>\n<\/details>\n<\/div>\n

Technical Support for Knotter Adjustment on Your 9YF Model<\/h2>\n
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Knotter adjustment requires model-specific specifications. Contact us with your 9YF \ubaa8\ub378<\/a> number and serial number and we will provide the correct timing specification values and support for any knotter adjustment problem.<\/p>\n

\uae30\uc220 \uc9c0\uc6d0\ud300\uc5d0 \ubb38\uc758\ud558\uc138\uc694.<\/a>
\n\uc0ac\uac01 \ubca0\uc77c\ub7ec \uc81c\ud488\uad70 \ubcf4\uae30<\/a><\/div>\n

\n<\/div>\n

\ud3b8\uc9d1\uc790: Cxm<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Technical Guide \u00b7 All 9YF Models \u00b7 D-Type Knotter Adjustment Square Baler Knotter Adjustment Guide The knotter is the most mechanically precise component on a square baler \u2014 and the only one that cannot be approximately right. A bill hook one millimetre out of position, a needle arriving at the wrong phase, or a tension […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[28],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1260","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-forage-baler"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1260","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1260"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1260\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1262,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1260\/revisions\/1262"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1260"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1260"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/foragebaler.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1260"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}